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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

ROOFING FAQ

Roof Components & Terms

  • Attic: The open area above the ceiling and under the roof deck of a steep-sloped roof.
  • Asphalt Shingle: A shingle manufactured by coating a reinforcing material (felt or fibrous glass mat) with asphalt and having mineral granules on the side exposed to the weather.
  • Bundle: A package of shingles. There are 3, 4 or 5 bundles per square.
  • Caulk: Using mastic or asphalt cement to fill a joint to prevent leaks.
  • Collar: Also called a vent sleeve, a collar is a pre-formed flange placed over a vent pipe to seal the roof around the vent pipe opening.
  • Condensation: The change of water from vapor to liquid when warm, moisture-laden air comes in contact with a cold surface.
  • Counter Flashing: The portion of the flashing attached to a vertical surface to prevent water from migrating behind the base flashing.
  • Course: A row of shingles or roll roofing running the length of the roof.
  • Cricket: A peaked saddle construction at the back of a chimney to prevent accumulation of snow and ice and to deflect water around the chimney.
  • Cutout: The open portions of a strip shingle between the tabs.
  • Deck, Decking or Sheathing: The structural “skin” of a roof over which roofing is applied. Most new homes have decking made of plywood.
  • Dimensional Shingle: A shingle that is textured, overlayed, or laminated and designed to produce a three-dimensional effect. (Similar to Laminated shingle and Architectural shingle)
  • Dormer: A framed window unit that projects through the sloping plane of a roof.
  • Downspout: A pipe for draining water from roof gutters. A downspout is also called a leader.
  • Drip Edge: An L-shaped, non-corrosive, non-staining material (usually metal) used along the eaves and rakes to allow water run-off to drip clear of underlying construction.
  • Eave: The horizontal, lower edge of a sloped roof.
  • Exposure: Portion of the shingle exposed to the weather. Exposure is measured from the butt of one shingle to the butt of the next.
  • Fascia or Fascia Board: (pronounced fey-shuh) Horizontal trim at the eaves that covers the rafter ends.
  • Felt: A flexible sheet that is saturated with asphalt and used as an underlayment. Sometimes called “tar paper”, the GAF brand used is called Shingle Mate, made with a fiberglass mat instead of a paper mat.
  • Flashing: Pieces of metal or roll roofing used to prevent seepage of water into a building around any intersection or projection in a roof such as vent pipes, chimneys, adjoining walls, dormers, and valleys. Galvanized metal flashing should be minimum 26-gauge.
  • Gable: The upper portion of a sidewall that comes to a triangular point at the ridge of a sloping roof.
  • Gable Roof: A type of roof containing sloping planes of the same pitch on each side of the ridge. A gable roof typically contains a gable at each end.
  • Gambrel: A type of roof containing two sloping planes of different pitch on each side of the ridge. The lower plane has a steeper slope than the upper. A gambrel roof usually contains a gable at each end, just like a standard gable roof.
  • Granules: Ceramic-coated colored crushed rock that is applied to the exposed surface of asphalt roofing products.
  • Gutter: The trough that channels water from the eaves to the downspouts.
  • Hip: The inclined external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes. The hip runs from the ridge to the eaves.
  • Hip Roof: A type of roof containing sloping planes of the same pitch on each of four sides. A hip roof contains no gables.
  • Ice Guard: A self-adhering, waterproofing shingle underlayment designed to protect against water infiltration due to ice dams or wind-driven rain. GAF brand used would be called Weather Watch.
  • Intake Ventilation: The part of a ventilation system used to draw fresh air in. Usually vents installed in the soffit or along the eaves of a building.
  • Laminated Shingles: Strip shingles containing more than one layer of tabs to create extra thickness. Laminated shingles are also called three-dimensional shingles.
  • Mansard Roof: A type of roof containing two sloping planes of different pitch on each of four sides. The lower plane has a much steeper pitch than the upper, often approaching vertical. (has no gables)
  • Open Valley: Method of valley construction in which shingles on both sides of the valley are trimmed along a chalk line snapped on each side of the valley. Shingles do not extend across the valley. Valley flashing is exposed.
  • Overhang: That portion of the roof structure that extends beyond the exterior walls of a building.
  • Pitch: Also known as “slope”, pitch is the measure of how “steep” a roof is. For example, if a roof is “4 in 12″, the roof rises 4 inches for every horizontal run of 12 inches. The pitch of the roof is a big factor in determining the kinds of materials that can be used and the longevity of the roof. Usually, a steeper roof (higher pitch) will last longer due to its better drainage capabilities.
  • Rafter: The supporting framing member immediately beneath the deck, sloping from the ridge to the wall plate.
  • Rake: The inclined edge of a sloped roof over a wall from the eave to the ridge.
  • Re-roofing: Installing a new roof system on a building that is not new.
  • Ridge: The uppermost, horizontal external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.
  • Ridge Vent: Vent placed along the ridge of the roof. It allows ventilation of the roof by raising the LEVEL of the ridge slightly leaving room for air flow. A filtration fabric placed in the side vents allows air to move through while preventing insects from entering.
  • Sheathing: Exterior grade boards used as a roof deck material. “Step sheathing” is used alone or in combinations with solid sheathing for installation of tiles or shakes. Step sheathing allows air circulations under the tiles by using 1-by-6 or 2-by-6 boards that are evenly spaced so that air can move under the tiles or shakes.
  • Slope: The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in inches, to the run, in feet.
  • Soffit: The finished underside of the eaves.
  • Square: A unit of roof measure covering 100 square feet (10 feet by 10 feet).
  • Starter Strip: Asphalt roofing applied at the eaves that provide protection by filling in the spaces under the cutouts and joints of the first course of shingles.
  • Steep Slope Application: Method of installing asphalt shingles on roof slopes greater than 21 inches per foot.
  • Step Flashing: Flashing application method used where a vertical surface meets a sloping roof plane.
  • Three-dimensional Shingles: See laminated shingles.
  • Three-tab Shingle: The most popular type of asphalt shingle usually 12″ x 36″ in size with three tabs.
  • Underlayment: A layer of asphalt saturated (sometimes referred to as tar paper) which is laid down on a bare deck before shingles are installed to provide additional protection for the deck.
  • Valley: The internal angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes to provide water runoff.
  • Vent: Any outlet for air that protrudes through the roof deck such as a pipe or stack. Any device installed on the roof, gable, or soffit for the purpose of ventilating the underside of the roof deck.

Will a Kassel & Irons steel roof attract lightning?

Metal roofing does not create or attract lighting and poses no additional lightning risk to homes and other structures it protects. For more information on this subject, here is a technical bulletin from the Metal Construction Association.

Do I need a new roof?

Sometimes a roof can naturally reach the end of its useful life without experiencing a roof failure. It just looks old and worn, and you are doing preventive maintenance on your home. If replacing an old roof is delayed, however, it could result in bigger problems down the road. So watch for the warning signs to be sure to give yourself plenty of time to complete the project.

Potential signs a roof may need to be replaced:

  • Shingle edges are curled or shingle tabs are cupped.
  • Bald spots where granules are missing.
  • Cracked shingles.
  • Your roof is at least 20 years old; while many shingles today are produced for durability, many factors can accelerate the aging of shingles. For example, if your roof is not properly ventilated, it can negatively impact your shingles.
  • The roof just looks old and worn.
  • Neighbors are getting new roofs. Homes built around the same time period can be experiencing the same types of weather conditions can mean that your roof is nearing its useful life.
  • Dark streaks. Airborne algae cause dark streaks on roof decks. While this may not necessarily harm the roof shingles, it may not look good. Algae streaks can be removed using a 50:50 blend of water and bleach sprayed on your roof. It is important to use a low volume garden hose so you do not knock the protective granules off your shingles. It is also important that you protect your landscaping from the bleach run-off.
  • Moss can grow on roof surfaces that don’t get much sunlight, especially in cool, moist climates. Moss growth can be more than a cosmetic issue. Moss holds moisture against the roof surface and overtime in freezing climates can cause damage to the granules on the top of the shingles. Moss can be brushed off but it won’t prevent it from growing again; take care not to damage the shingle surface.

How much rain noise can we expect on a metal roof?

Our steel shingle products are textured, and avoid much of the noise expected from rain hitting a flatter metal roof. For normal construction methods, steel roofing does not create any objectionable noise during rainstorms. Ventilation and attic air space have an impact on sound absorption, as can roof underlayment materials.

What are the signs of a roof leak?

Knowing you have a roof leak is usually obvious when you see the water spot on your ceiling. However, it can be much harder to pinpoint the cause of the leak. You may assume your shingles are at fault, but it could be missing flashing around a chimney, or some other entry point, that’s allowing the water to get inside your attic. Once inside the attic, water can travel along rafters and other horizontal surfaces making it difficult to find the exact entry point.

If shingles are missing, cracked or otherwise damaged, water can, over time, begin to leak into the home. A leak can start out small and slowly cause a lot of damage if a warning sign is ignored.

Water entry can also be caused by an ice dam. Ice dams are formed by the continual thawing of snow over the warmer portions of the roof and refreezing over the cold eave. The ice dam can cause water to back up under shingles. If your roof doesn’t have an ice & water underlayment installed under the shingles, you could be experiencing leaks.

  • Water spots on your ceiling or walls.
  • Missing shingles.
  • Cracked or damaged shingles.
  • Missing or damaged flashing or boot covers to roof penetrations.
  • Water spots or wet roof decking (seen through the attic).

SIDING FAQ

How long have James Hardie products been around?

James Hardie® Industries was founded in Australia in 1888 and began selling fiber cement products in 1903. The company opened its first U.S. manufacturing plant in Fontana, California, in 1989. James Hardie products are now manufactured in eight plants in the U.S. and have been installed on over 3 million homes in this country.

Do James Hardie products comply with homeowners’ association restrictive covenants?

Each homeowners’ association has a different set of restrictive covenants, but, if your home currently has siding on it, chances are excellent that James Hardie products will be accepted.

What is the advantage of Hardiplank compared to vinyl siding?

Only Hardiplank provides a lifetime solution to your siding problems and gives your home the look and feel of real wood. It has excellent durability and will not rot, warp, or burn. It is dimensionally stable and it will not expand or contract like vinyl siding.

Are there any environmental or health concerns associated with James Hardie products?

No. James Hardie products are environmentally friendly and safe. They contain no asbestos, glass fibers, or formaldehyde.

WINDOWS & DOORS FAQ

What should I use to clean the glass in my Pella windows and doors?

Use an ammonia-free glass cleaner such as Pella™ Glass and Window Cleaner, a premixed vinegar-based cleaning solution, or make your own with one part white vinegar to 10 parts water, and apply to a soft, clean, lint-free microfiber cloth or paper towel. Feel free to be generous with the amount of cleaner you apply to the cloth or paper towel, but avoid getting any cleaning solution on the wood, fiberglass or vinyl frames, as they may discolor the finish.

How can I tell if the glass is tempered on my Pella products?

If the glass is tempered, a tempered glass etch will be on every pane of tempered glass. This etch can be located in any corner and on any side of the glass, and will not be on the same side as the Low-E coating. This etch may be on a different corner than the Pella product serial number. All corners should be checked. All tempered glass will be labeled as tempered. All patio doors have tempered glass.

My patio door is hard to open and/or close. How can I fix this?

Over time, dirt and debris can get in or on the track (including the rollers), making it harder to open and close the door. To make your patio door easier to open and close, use a vacuum cleaner with the brush attachment and clean out any dirt and debris in the track below the sliding panel.siding.

If you’re still getting resistance after cleaning the track, the patio door rollers may need to be adjusted.

Adjust the rollers up or down to make sure the edge of the movable door panel is parallel to the side of the door frame. The adjustment holes are located on either side of the movable door, near the bottom. To adjust the rollers, remove the plastic hole cap and use a long shaft Phillips-head screwdriver to turn the adjustment screw clockwise to raise the end of the door, or counterclockwise to lower it. Open and close the panel to test for proper operation. If necessary, repeat the adjustment process on the other side of the panel. When the adjustments are complete and the door is operating properly, replace the plastic caps.

Why do I have moisture on the inside of my windows and/or patio doors? What can I do to eliminate it?

While windows and doors do not cause condensation, they may be one of the first places it shows up. Interior condensation does not indicate a failure of the glass on your Pella windows and/or patio doors. Condensation is water that forms when warm, moist air hits a cooler surface. A good analogy is when you have an iced drink on a warm summer day, and the glass has moisture on the outside of the glass. The warmer air meeting the cooler surface of the glass causes condensation to form. In homes, condensation might occur on surfaces such as windows, mirrors, bathroom walls and cold-water pipes. Condensation can form on the coldest surface in a room which is often the glass in a window or door.

If the moisture appears to be in between the panes of glass and you cannot touch or wipe it off locate the serial number and contact your Manor for further assistance.

What causes condensation?

Excess humidity is typically the cause of condensation. There are many sources for moisture in a home: showers, dishwashers, clothes washers and dryers, house plants, humans and pets, among others. In newly built homes, additional moisture may escape from building materials such as lumber, plaster and masonry for up to three heating seasons, even with proper airflow and temperature management.

What can I do?

  • Use exhaust fans in your kitchen, laundry and bathrooms
  • Vent gas burners, clothes dryers, and other appliances to the outdoors
  • Shut off furnace humidifiers and other humidifying devices in your home
  • Use a dehumidifier
  • Ensure the ventilating louvers in your attic or crawl space are open and amply sized
  • Open fireplace dampers
  • Air out your house for a few minutes each day

Older versus newer homes:

When replacement windows or doors are properly installed in older homes that may have had aging, loose or poorly installed windows and doors, the airflow around the window decreases and condensation may form on the glass of the new windows. Newer homes are more airtight and energy-efficient. Many have vapor barriers like plastic within the wall cavity blocking moisture passage in either direction. With tighter-fitting doors and windows, vapor barriers and increased insulation, energy costs are lower – but humidity levels must be monitored more closely. No matter when your home was built, the key is to strike the right balance when it comes to humidity levels.

DECKING FAQ

Not a deck expert, click here for help.

 

  • Beam:The boards that sit on top of the posts and support the joists.
  • Cap rail: The horizontal board that runs along the top of all posts and pickets running around a deck.
  • Decking: The boards that make up the surface of a deck. The decking boards are secured to the joists.
  • Fascia: Boards that cover the ends of the deck boards and the perimeter joists for decorative purposes.
  • Footing: Any concrete base embedded in the ground in order to provide the main support for the deck.
  • Guardrail: A lower, horizontal board that runs across the railing posts.
  • Joists: The boards that act as support for the decking boards.
  • Joist Hangers: Metal fasteners that attach joists to ledger board.
  • Ledger Board: The board that attaches directly to the existing structure or to lateral joists.
  • Piers: Concrete blocks located above the footing. Usually 6 inches high.
  • Posts: The vertical supports that rest on piers and support the beam, most often built from 4×4 pieces of lumber.
  • Railing Post: The vertical posts that hold the rail
  • Rim Joist: The joist which runs up against the joist ends, usually on the far side of the deck, away from the house. Also called the perimeter joist.
  • Rise: The height of a step.
  • Run: The length of a step.
  • Stringer: The end pieces that hold the stairs and steps together, and onto which the treads are attached.
  • Top rail: The upper, horizontal board that runs between the railing posts.

Will my Azek deck weather?

Protected by Alloy Armour Technology™, the latest in materials science innovation, AZEK® Deck is the most beautiful and long lasting wood alternative available. It also comes with a 30-year Fade & Stain warranty, but eventually all decking products, natural or man-made, will experience some weathering. It’s all about where you live and the environmental and climate conditions in your particular area. That said, compared to traditional wood, AZEK weathers the least.

Can AZEK® Deck be used near water?

Yes. Since AZEK® Deck is capped polymer decking, it is resistant to rot and decay caused by moisture, making it the ideal material to use around water. It’s comprised of 100% inorganic materials, which means it isn’t susceptible to moisture related deterioration commonly seen with wood. Its synthetic makeup protects it against rotting, warping and cupping—all water-related issues. If you want to include a water feature in your deck plan, AZEK capped polymer decking is the perfect material to choose.

Can I power wash AZEK® Deck?

Yes, when the pressure is set to 1300 psi or lower, and when using a fan tip nozzle. Always keep the nozzle at a reasonable distance from the surface to prevent damage. To be safe, first try the power washer on a scrap piece or inconspicuous area of AZEK Deck to be sure that you will not damage the surface. In some situations, power washing alone may not provide optimal results.