Sometimes a roof can naturally reach the end of its useful life without experiencing a roof failure. It just looks old and worn, and you are doing preventive maintenance on your home. If replacing an old roof is delayed, however, it could result in bigger problems down the road. So watch for the warning signs to be sure to give yourself plenty of time to complete the project.
Potential signs a roof may need to be replaced:
Shingle edges are curled or shingle tabs are cupped.
Bald spots where granules are missing.
Your roof is at least 20 years old; while many shingles today are produced for durability, many factors can accelerate the aging of shingles. For example, if your roof is not properly ventilated, it can negatively impact your shingles.
The roof just looks old and worn.
Neighbors are getting new roofs. Homes built around the same time period can be experiencing the same types of weather conditions can mean that your roof is nearing its useful life.
Dark streaks. Airborne algae cause dark streaks on roof decks. While this may not necessarily harm the roof shingles, it may not look good. Algae streaks can be removed using a 50:50 blend of water and bleach sprayed on your roof. It is important to use a low volume garden hose so you do not knock the protective granules off your shingles. It is also important that you protect your landscaping from the bleach run-off.
Moss can grow on roof surfaces that don’t get much sunlight, especially in cool, moist climates. Moss growth can be more than a cosmetic issue. Moss holds moisture against the roof surface and overtime in freezing climates can cause damage to the granules on the top of the shingles. Moss can be brushed off but it won’t prevent it from growing again; take care not to damage the shingle surface.
Our steel shingle products are textured, and avoid much of the noise expected from rain hitting a flatter metal roof. For normal construction methods, steel roofing does not create any objectionable noise during rainstorms. Ventilation and attic air space have an impact on sound absorption, as can roof underlayment materials.
Knowing you have a roof leak is usually obvious when you see the water spot on your ceiling. However, it can be much harder to pinpoint the cause of the leak. You may assume your shingles are at fault, but it could be missing flashing around a chimney, or some other entry point, that’s allowing the water to get inside your attic. Once inside the attic, water can travel along rafters and other horizontal surfaces making it difficult to find the exact entry point.
If shingles are missing, cracked or otherwise damaged, water can, over time, begin to leak into the home. A leak can start out small and slowly cause a lot of damage if a warning sign is ignored.
Water entry can also be caused by an ice dam. Ice dams are formed by the continual thawing of snow over the warmer portions of the roof and refreezing over the cold eave. The ice dam can cause water to back up under shingles. If your roof doesn’t have an ice & water underlayment installed under the shingles, you could be experiencing leaks.
Potential signs of a leak:
Water spots on your ceiling or walls.
Cracked or damaged shingles.
Missing or damaged flashing or boot covers to roof penetrations.
Water spots or wet roof decking (seen through the attic).
James Hardie® Industries was founded in Australia in 1888 and began selling fiber cement products in 1903. The company opened its first U.S. manufacturing plant in Fontana, California, in 1989. James Hardie products are now manufactured in eight plants in the U.S. and have been installed on over 3 million homes in this country.
Only Hardiplank provides a lifetime solution to your siding problems and gives your home the look and feel of real wood. It has excellent durability and will not rot, warp, or burn. It is dimensionally stable and it will not expand or contract like vinyl siding.
Use an ammonia-free glass cleaner such as Pella™ Glass and Window Cleaner, a premixed vinegar-based cleaning solution, or make your own with one part white vinegar to 10 parts water, and apply to a soft, clean, lint-free microfiber cloth or paper towel. Feel free to be generous with the amount of cleaner you apply to the cloth or paper towel, but avoid getting any cleaning solution on the wood, fiberglass or vinyl frames, as they may discolor the finish.
If the glass is tempered, a tempered glass etch will be on every pane of tempered glass. This etch can be located in any corner and on any side of the glass, and will not be on the same side as the Low-E coating. This etch may be on a different corner than the Pella product serial number. All corners should be checked. All tempered glass will be labeled as tempered. All patio doors have tempered glass.
Over time, dirt and debris can get in or on the track (including the rollers), making it harder to open and close the door. To make your patio door easier to open and close, use a vacuum cleaner with the brush attachment and clean out any dirt and debris in the track below the sliding panel.
If you’re still getting resistance after cleaning the track, the patio door rollers may need to be adjusted.
Adjust the rollers up or down to make sure the edge of the movable door panel is parallel to the side of the door frame. The adjustment holes are located on either side of the movable door, near the bottom. To adjust the rollers, remove the plastic hole cap and use a long shaft Phillips-head screwdriver to turn the adjustment screw clockwise to raise the end of the door, or counterclockwise to lower it. Open and close the panel to test for proper operation. If necessary, repeat the adjustment process on the other side of the panel. When the adjustments are complete and the door is operating properly, replace the plastic caps.
While windows and doors do not cause condensation, they may be one of the first places it shows up. Interior condensation does not indicate a failure of the glass on your Pella windows and/or patio doors. Condensation is water that forms when warm, moist air hits a cooler surface. A good analogy is when you have an iced drink on a warm summer day, and the glass has moisture on the outside of the glass. The warmer air meeting the cooler surface of the glass causes condensation to form. In homes, condensation might occur on surfaces such as windows, mirrors, bathroom walls and cold-water pipes. Condensation can form on the coldest surface in a room which is often the glass in a window or door.
If the moisture appears to be in between the panes of glass and you cannot touch or wipe it off locate the serial number and contact your Manor for further assistance.
What causes condensation?
Excess humidity is typically the cause of condensation. There are many sources for moisture in a home: showers, dishwashers, clothes washers and dryers, house plants, humans and pets, among others. In newly built homes, additional moisture may escape from building materials such as lumber, plaster and masonry for up to three heating seasons, even with proper airflow and temperature management.
What can I do?
In order to reduce condensation, humidity levels in the home must be controlled and air movement must be generated. To reduce humidity in your home:
Use exhaust fans in your kitchen, laundry and bathrooms
Vent gas burners, clothes dryers, and other appliances to the outdoors
Shut off furnace humidifiers and other humidifying devices in your home
Use a dehumidifier
Ensure the ventilating louvers in your attic or crawl space are open and amply sized
Open fireplace dampers
Air out your house for a few minutes each day
Older versus newer homes:
When replacement windows or doors are properly installed in older homes that may have had aging, loose or poorly installed windows and doors, the airflow around the window decreases and condensation may form on the glass of the new windows. Newer homes are more airtight and energy-efficient. Many have vapor barriers like plastic within the wall cavity blocking moisture passage in either direction. With tighter-fitting doors and windows, vapor barriers and increased insulation, energy costs are lower – but humidity levels must be monitored more closely. No matter when your home was built, the key is to strike the right balance when it comes to humidity levels.
Protected by Alloy Armour Technology™, the latest in materials science innovation, AZEK® Deck is the most beautiful and long lasting wood alternative available. It also comes with a 30-year Fade & Stain warranty, but eventually all decking products, natural or man-made, will experience some weathering. It’s all about where you live and the environmental and climate conditions in your particular area. That said, compared to traditional wood, AZEK weathers the least.
Yes. Since AZEK® Deck is capped polymer decking, it is resistant to rot and decay caused by moisture, making it the ideal material to use around water. It’s comprised of 100% inorganic materials, which means it isn’t susceptible to moisture related deterioration commonly seen with wood. Its synthetic makeup protects it against rotting, warping and cupping—all water-related issues. If you want to include a water feature in your deck plan, AZEK capped polymer decking is the perfect material to choose.
Yes, when the pressure is set to 1300 psi or lower, and when using a fan tip nozzle. Always keep the nozzle at a reasonable distance from the surface to prevent damage. To be safe, first try the power washer on a scrap piece or inconspicuous area of AZEK Deck to be sure that you will not damage the surface. In some situations, power washing alone may not provide optimal results.
We do not recommend painting AZEK® Rail. Since AZEK Rail is a capped composite with PVC performance materials that will never rot, peel, or splinter, there is never a need to paint them. Fortunately, AZEK Rail comes in a variety of colors and infills for a truly customizable rail system—eliminating the need for paint all together.
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